J'avoue que sans la liquidation de Charles Jourdan et la note que j'ai écrite à ce sujet, je n'aurais peut-être pas bravé la pluie à peine rentrée de voyage pour aller acheter cette paire de Derby pied-de-poule qui m'attendait sagement au showroom Clergerie, rue du Cherche-Midi. Enfin disons que cela n'aurait peut-être pas été ma priorité, même si ce pied-de-poule m'avait déjà attiré l'oeil en passant devant la boutique. C'est en visitant le site - que je vous conseille vivement tant il est graphiquement sobre et élégant - et en regardant la collection d'hiver que mon désir s'est fixé sur ce modèle qu'il me fallait donc absolument. C'est chose faite et j'en suis ravie. Elles agissent sur moi comme la madeleine de Proust, évoquant Londres et le ska, le souvenir de Madness et The Specials. Reste à trouver les vêtements qui les mettront en valeur, le pantalon qui s'arrête net au dessus de la cheville, ou un modèle à "rebouler" (© Punky b).
Sinon, j'ai pu jeter un oeil sur la collection de cet été. Des couleurs flashy, un escarpin verni rouge de toute beauté, des découpes de talons étonnantes, ainsi que des sandales plate-forme avec un procédé breveté pour le talon qui permet de marcher avec souplesse. Je vous reparle de tout cela bientôt, sans oublier les sacs. Car qui dit accessoires...
Boutique Robert Clergerie, 5 rue du Cherche-Midi, 75006 Paris
Citations from: Chaussures, langages du style, Valérie Steele, Editions du Collectionneur pour l'édition française, 1999.
I must admit that without the bankruptcy of Charles Jourdan and the article I wrote about it I wouldn't have rushed under the rain as soon as I was back in Paris to buy those Derby which were waiting for me at the Clergerie showroom. Well let say that it wouldn't have been a priority even if I had already noticed the houndstooth pattern while walking by the boutique. But when I checked the winter collection on the website (you should take a look at it as it is chic and elegant), I wanted them right away. And now that I got them they gave me some kind of bliss. They remain me London, the ska, the memory of band like Madness and The specials. Now I've got to find the outfits to reveal their beauty, like a trouser cut below the ankles or that I can roll on.
I'm sure that for you as for me, Clergerie brand evokes the eighties and nineties and our mothers who wore them or wished to do it. At the end of the nineties, Mr Clergerie sold his company to a financial trust but stayed as a consultant for the collections until 2001. Yet times have changed as I've already explained it and the company was driven on the edge of bankruptcy. In 2005, Robert Clergerie has reinvested his assets in his company which prove the passion of this man dedicated to his work. To hand on his knowledges to young students in fashion design he created a "Design and Passion by Clergerie" certificate that they obtain after 8 weeks of theoretical and practical teaching at the factory in Romans. During this 2 months they create a shoe and you can see some of them on the website, surprising or astonishing they show a real passion for design and that's a good news for our feet.
As you may have noticed, I'm interested in history and that's why I'm enjoying that pair of Derby because this model is emblematic of the brand. In 1981, Robert Clergerie saved Fenestrier, a male footwear factory, from banckruptcy and launched his brand with a model of Richelieu, "a male shoe designed for woman and which became for her an accessory as important as the little black dress: a must-have in her dressing." (Derby or Richelieu, the differences are quite tenuous). When he bought Fenestrier, everyone in Romans thought that he was crazy but he was right about one thing when he said that this kind of shoe is dedicated to the modern life. That's why I needed them. I couldn't stand wearing my old trainers anymore and I wanted flat but elegant shoes, with this unisex shape.
When I was in the showroom I could take a look at the S/S 08 collection. Flashy and fluorescent colours, a gorgeous red varnished high heels, astonishing heel design, platform sandals with a graphical shape, and bags... well an interesting collection I will talk about soon.